If you’ve ever traveled by boat on the Chao Phraya River, you’ve probably noticed an attractive pagoda rising from the riverbank opposite Chinatown. The pagoda is part of the Chee Chin Khor Temple complex on the grounds of the Moral Uplifting Society. It’s a Mahayana Buddhist temple that fuses Chinese and Thai architectural styles to create a rather unique place of worship.
The Moral Uplifting Society is a body dedicated to the promotion of moral values and charitable activities. The society provides free rice, blankets, and coffins to the poor as well as student lunches to disadvantaged children.
Chee Chin Khor Temple was founded in 1953 and the opening ceremony was presided over by King Rama IX. A new Devi Vihara, or Hall of Worship, opened in 1988 with the pagoda added in 2001. Another new building was constructed in 2018.
The main temple building architecture is a mixture of Thai Buddhist art and classical Chinese style.
There are three floors between the two connected buildings. Inside there are several shrines, each with a distinctive style and featuring various Chinese and Thai religious images. The walls and ceilings are superbly crafted in colorful detail.
On the ground floor is a fat “Laughing Buddha” image, formally known as Budai. The Budai is a famous Chinese monk worshipped as a deity by Chinese Buddhists and can be found in temples all over Thailand. Behind Budai are images of four Chinese sages.
A stairway heads up to the second floor, which resembles the interior of a cave. Inside are more bronze images of sages representing Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism. Outside is a terrace with a bell tower and drum.
Behind is the new second building that’s connected by a walkway. Here you’ll find a standing Buddha flanked by two Chinese deities. Another stairway leads to the highest level where another deity sits on a throne.
On the ground floor there’s an ornately decorated gold and black door leading to a Butsudan room, a room that’s for paying respect to those who have died. The Chinese sign above the door translates to “temple for seeking entrance to heaven.”
Inside, the wall features nameplates in remembrance of the dead. This is where families of the dead come here to pay their respects.
Chee Chin Khor Pagoda
The most prominent feature of the Chee Chin Khor Temple is the pagoda. Eight floors with a different deity on each floor, and a worthwhile view of the Chao Phraya River at the top. The official name of the pagoda is Mahathat Chedi Prajonchatri Thai-Chin Charoen. The interior features granite and bronze with engraved hexagonal windows. A climb to the top of the pagoda rewards you with view of the Chao Phraya River and Bangkok skyline.
On the second floor is an image of a former supreme patriarch of Thailand, head of Buddhist monks.
The third floor features Guan Yin, the goddess of mercy.
Floors four to 7 feature Chinese deities while a reclining Buddha occupies the top floor.
But Wait… There’s More!
If you arrive at the riverside pier you’ll see a tall entrance arch. The Chinese text on the arch translates as, “Peace & serenity in the eastern sun.”
Also notice the small sala to the right. Just outside is a small shrine with the figure of a man with a woman’s hairstyle wearing lipstick and makeup.
No, this isn’t a shrine to ladyboys. It’s actually a female ghost that seeks to seduce and possess men while they’re dreaming. Daily offerings of incense, drinks, fruit, and cakes appease her.
In the middle of the courtyard directly in front of the main temple building is a covered altar. The ceiling is decorated with dragon and flower motifs. Adorning the roof are colorful fenghuang.
Just behind the pagoda is a colorful dragon sculpture wall. The purpose of the dragon wall is to stop malevolent ghosts and evil spirits form entering the temple. These can be seen in several Chinese temples in Bangkok, but the wall here is bigger than most.
Another interesting object that catches the eye is a Chinese temple style cremation oven that’s uniquely shaped like a large urn. As you might’ve guessed, this is usually used in funeral rituals. Small objects, paper, and afterlife money is burnt to help the deceased in their next life.
Next to the arch is a small shrine with a Chinese sage image inside.
People come to this shrine to pray and receive blessings for good morality.
Getting There & Opening Hours
The temple isn’t on the tourist trail and has very few tourist visitors. However, it’s worth a visit if looking for a less touristy temple.
Chee Chin Khor Temple is open from 8AM until 4:30PM, and there are a few ways to get there.
The temple is walking distance from the Millennium Hilton Hotel and ICONSIAM.
You can yake the cross-river ferry from Si Phraya Pier at River City to Khlong San Pier for 5 baht. Alternatively, take the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat to Lhong 1919.
But, the easiest way, especially for those who don’t like boat rides, is to take the BTS Gold Line to Khlong San Station.